Danny DeVito's Latest Role: SoBe Restaurateur

Jun 21, 04:44 AM

Current Headlines: By Madeleine Marr, The Miami Herald

Jun. 21--THUMBS WAY UP: At far left, DeVito South Beach co-owners David Manero (left) and Michael Brauser with Danny DeVito; above, cabana-style seating is offered outside the restaurant.

For such a small guy, Danny DeVito makes mighty big waves.

For more than 30 years, the lovable loudmouth has entertained us in such memorable roles as grouchy dispatcher Louie de Palma in TV's long-running Taxi, wimpy "Little Ned" Lift in Throw Momma from the Train and the spot-on Penguin in Batman Returns.

At 62, the 4-foot-something dynamo is taking on a brand-new gig: restaurateur.

DeVito South Beach, a snazzy Italian chop house on Ocean Drive, has been in the works for about two years. The plan hatched while the actor was vacationing with his wife, Cheers alum Rhea Perlman, and ran into South Florida financier Michael Brauser on the Greek island of Santorini.

"Michael and I were talking upcoming Hollywood projects over a beautiful, family-cooked meal on a bluff, with lots of great wine," DeVito said in a phone interview from Philadelphia, where he was filming F/X's Seinfeldian It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia. "Then he popped the question."

Becoming a partner in a restaurant was the last thing on DeVito's mind, but it happened to be a great fit: He loves to cook, not to mention eat. He grew up around food in southern New Jersey, where his dad owned a luncheonette and his mom was a formidable home cook.

"My mother was literally cooking morning till night. She'd start making the zeppole at 6 a.m. There was always an aunt or a cousin coming in or out. Uncle Joe made the wine from scratch; my father caught the fish."

When DeVito started out in show business in the '60s, money was tight and he went vegetarian. Instead of living on junk food, he opted for cheap, healthful eats like brown rice, vegetables and nuts.

'It was weird; when I went home I wouldn't touch my mother's meatballs or steak pizzaiola; I had long hair and ate ramen noodles. My family would tease me, 'You hippie!' I was always a topic of discussion."

DeVito is so passionate about food he often ditches on-set catering carts and cooks in his trailer. He recalls exploits with his late, great friend and culinary co-conspirator Vincent Schiavelli, an actor (Ghost) he met while making 1975's One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest.

"During Batman Returns, he'd come early in the morning and bring the ingredients for the day's meal. My trailer was like an Italian delicatessen. Between takes, [director] Tim Burton and the crew would come over. Everyone would sit out on the stoop with their plates."

These days, DeVito consumes a fair amount of red meat, but still spurns veal. ("I have certain images in my head I can't get rid of.")

"Fish is really big for me -- sushi, a nice branzino or spigola [sea bass]. Or pasta with some great cheese like pecorino or romano with some prosciutto or salami. If you haven't noticed, I'm not one to pass up a meal."

Though DeVito had a hand in determining the restaurant's classic-meets-contemporary cuisine, he credits his other partner, David Manero (Vic & Angelo's).

Manero and executive chef Francis Casciato created a menu heavy on fresh seafood and prime meats like super-lean Kurobuta pork from Japan. The signature item: a Kobe "flight," a trio of steaks from Japan, Australia and the United States for a cool $325.

Manero is particularly proud of the house's red sauce, made with famously flavorful San Marzano plum tomatoes grown in the volcanic soil of Italy's Mount Vesuvius. (It's for sale at the restaurant and its website for $12.95 a jar.)

On a preopening tour of the premises, Manero describes the food as "wholesome and meant to appeal to all age groups." He proffers a batch of steaming popovers, DeVito South Beach's start-out bread. Every table gets an unlimited amount, along with freshly made zucchini fritti.

"First impressions are so important," Manero says. "When you go out for a nice dinner, you want to be fed. And we didn't want to do the standard rolls in a basket. We wanted to Italianize it, make it rustic."

Sitting down for an on-site chat last week, DeVito said he's delighted with the glam, over-the-top space, designed by Manero's wife, Lynn.

"I visited a few months back and it was all sawdusty, so I'm amazed -- it's gorgeous, spectacular," the actor says, lounging in the brick-lined front room. "And the food, Jesus. Last night I ate like I was going to the chair."

Eventually, DeVito may tweak the menu a bit, perhaps prodded by his private peanut gallery.

"Just wait till my sisters come down here," he says, only half-joking. 'It'll be pandemonium; they'll be critiquing everything and pushing their way into the kitchen, yelling at me, 'Get this outta here!' "

It's all good, though.

"Hey, we're Italian, that's the way it is. You just sigh, and you go on."

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